May 2, 2007

a simple sunday dinner

While browsing the Japanese-language cookbooks at my local bookstore in search of some Sunday-dinner inspiration, I found a book about flavoring salt and sugar with various ingredients, with beautiful pictures of sparkling pink and green granules sprinkled over their accompanying dishes. A few minutes later, while flipping through a tofu cookbook, I spotted a recipe for silken tōfu topped with enoki, garnished with a pinch of matcha salt. Remembering that I had made something similar before from a recipe out of the trusty Washoku by Elizabeth Andoh, and also remembering I already had a recipe for matcha salt, my Sunday dinner seemed set -- and I didn't even have to buy a new cookbook.

The last couple times I made this mushroom-topped tofu recipe, the weather was cold and I used a mixture off dark, meaty mushroom varieties like maitake and shiitake, but because I wanted something more delicate in flavor and pale enough to set off the bright green salt, this time I used only a bunch of thin white enoki. The flavor of the mushroom sauce ended up light enough to let the grassy matcha taste come through.

When preparing tofu simply, Otokomae is my favorite brand to use, both for its dense but silky texture and its unquestionably kakkoii packaging. In addition to the usual blocks, Otokomae is also sold in individual packs of three, kind of like pudding cups or juice boxes. They don't require draining and one is the perfect size for a lunchtime serving or a dinner side dish.

Tōfu no enoki an kake (Tōfu topped with enoki mushrooms)

Adapted from Washoku by Elizabeth Andoh

Makes 2 servings

1 block silken tōfu (kinugoshi-dōfu), drained and pressed*
2 teaspoons vegetable oil
10 oz/300 g enoki mushrooms, ends trimmed
1/4 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons sake
2/3 cup dashi
1 teaspoon light-colored soy sauce
1/4 teaspoon soy sauce
1 teaspoon mirin
1 1/2 teaspoons cornstarch mixed with 1 1/2 teaspoons cold water
Matcha salt, to garnish

Cut the tōfu in half and place each block in a shallow bowl. Heat the oil in a skillet and cook the mushrooms over high heat for about one minute, or until lightly browned. Add the salt and sake and cook for one minute more. Add the stock, soy sauces and mirin and cook for two minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the cornstarch-water mixture and stir for about one minute, or until the sauce has thickened slightly. Top each tōfu block with the mushroom sauce and a sprinkling of matcha salt. Serve immediately with chopsticks or a spoon.

Matcha salt

1 teaspoon coarse salt
1/4 teaspoon matcha

Mix the salt and matcha in a small dish or jar. In Japan, this is often served as a dip for fried foods like tempura. You can also mix matcha with sugar and sprinkle it on yogurt, cakes or cookies.

*This entry describes how to press the water out of tōfu.

Link | Comment (2) | Categories: Recipes | Soy | Spring

January 24, 2007

natto nonsense

The first time I went grocery shopping after returning from L.A. a couple weeks ago, I noticed the nattō shelves were absolutely bare, with only an apologetic-looking sign informing buyers of the situation. It turns out there was a mad run for nattō in Japan right around the time I posted about my own nattō battle because a popular TV program had done a show about the miraculously slimming effect of eating nattō twice a day. But wait! Don't go out and clear the supermarket shelves of all its smelly soybeans just yet! Because a couple weeks later it came out that the whole thing was just a crock (of beans?) and the weight loss results had all been fabricated. Oh, the shame.

This scandal has made the Nattō (Nonsense) Diet my second favorite Japanese fad diet, bested only by the Dark Chocolate Diet, which is still going strong, judging by all the new dark chocolate products popping up in the candy aisle every week. My favorite is the Meiji Chocolife Line, which seems like it should be eaten while wearing a velvet smoking jacket and sitting in a leather armchair somewhere. I aspire to live a chocolife....

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January 10, 2007

me vs. natto

In the showdown between me and Japanese food, there was one foe that could always best me: nattō.

Nattō. Fermented soybeans. You've probably heard of it. It's a divisive comestible, in that way only things that are called "food" yet smell like rotting feet are. While nearly everyone in Japan will lecture you on the health benefits of eating nattō (lowered risk of osteoporosis and cancer and blood clots and obesity and maybe...death?), there are actually a fair number of Japanese people who find the stuff repellent. The thing that makes nattō so disgustingly special is its texture, which manages to be at once slimy, slippery and stringy. This is a byproduct of the fermenting and aging process, during which the beans are soaked, fermented under heated conditions, then aged at a much cooler temperature. Meanwhile, Bacillus subtilis natto, a rice straw bacterium, does its not-so-subtle work and a pile of sticky, odiferous beans results.

But my cowering at the sight of nattō wouldn't do. I refused to be bullied, especially by something made of beans. Beans are small. Beans are innocuous. Beans are even kind of wimpy. So I armed myself with a fistful of green onions and a bowl of hot rice, excellent allies in any Japanese food showdown, and set to work.

Although I entertained thoughts of wimping out and starting with the black soybean nattō, which is supposed to be less strongly flavored, I decided to instead go for an all-purpose brand that had always caught my eye when I peeked fearfully at the nattō section of the grocery store. It came with small packets of tsuyu and karashi (mustard). I planned on using the tsuyu and forgoing the mustard, as its strong flavor might overpower the nattō-ness of my nattō. I chopped up some green onion and took a deep breath before lifting open the Styrofoam lid. It would be the last nattō-free breath I would take all day.

And there it was. You don't really need to ask why I was so afraid of nattō, do you?

The deep stink of fermented protein filled the kitchen. But the slippery adventure was only beginning -- I still had to mix my nattō, stirring it around with a pair of chopsticks to make it even more stringy. I wasn't too clear on why this was the desired result, but in the spirit of no-holds-barred nattō consumption, I did it.

After mixing, the beans looked even worse, foamy and viscous, like something you might find on the underside of a lily pad or see in a movie about spawning aliens. Undaunted, I piled them into the small bowl of hot rice, sprinkled on the tsuyu and covered the whole mess in a thick layer of green onions.

And finally, I put the first stinking bite into my mouth. I chewed. It was nutty. Slippery. There was a faint taste of rot, but it was rot I knew I could come to accept and maybe even love, like a very stinky cheese or a friendly zombie. After a couple bites, I added to some daubs of karashi to the mix and found the occasional burning bites even better. Toward the bottom of the bowl, I needed something more, so I pulled out my final Japanese food ally, the mighty umeboshi, and alternated the last bites of beans and rice with nibbles from the tart pickled ume. It was exactly right. I cleaned the bowl.

I had bested nattō. Or had I? My entire apartment reeked of the stuff for the rest of the day. I declare this match a tie.

Link | Comment (11) | Categories: Firsts | Soy | Weird

October 18, 2006

kinako frosting

So in my continued quest to flavor every possible dessert in my life with kinako, I came up with a kinako frosting this weekend to top these banana cupcakes. The kinako seems to temper the tanginess of the cream cheese a bit, which makes for a more mellow, not-overly sweet frosting. I'm thinking of using it to top some kabocha cupcakes in the near future.

Kinako-Cream Cheese Frosting

Makes enough for approximately 1 dozen cupcakes

3 oz/85 g cream cheese, at room temperature
3 tablespoons butter, at room temperature
2 tablespoons whipping cream
1/3 cup confectioners sugar
1/4 cup kinako, plus 1 tablespoon for sprinkling
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

Beat together the cream cheese, butter and whipping cream until smooth. Add the confectioners sugar, kinako and vanilla and beat on low speed until combined, then beat on high speed until fluffy.

After spreading or piping the frosting, put 1 tablespoon kinako in a sieve and sprinkle over your cake or cupcakes.

Link | Comment (3) | Categories: Recipes | Soy | Sweets | Western Food

August 25, 2006

edamame tofu

In an effort to expand my tofu horizons, I've been scanning the shelves for interesting-looking products, and this green and lovely cake of edamame (fresh soybean) tofu caught my eye. Unlike plain tofu, it has a fairly pronounced flavor, kind of sweet and nutty, helped along by the actual beans studded throughout. To prepare it, I just patted it dry, added some grated ginger, chopped myoga and green onions and a splash of tsuyu. Oishii, yo!

The texture is soft, more like a kinugoshi (silk) tofu, because it was made using nigari*, a coagulant derived from seawater. Since it is so delicate, it's officially okay to eat this type of tofu with a spoon, but -- as when I eat sushi with my fingers -- I never feel quite right about doing it. I feel like, if I were a real chopstick master, I'd be able to manage it with ease. So I usually end up using chopsticks anyway and sacrificing the little bits of errant tofu that end up at the bottom of the bowl for the cause of my future chopstick champion status.

*For a truly interesting read/listen, check out the The Food Issue of The New Yorker, which has an article about artisanal tofu makers in Japan. It's where I first learned about nigari.

Link | Comment (1) | Categories: Ingredients | Soy | Summer

July 4, 2006

kinako ice cream

As much as I'd like to believe the health benefits of kinako are retained when it is eaten in ice cream form, I have a feeling the whole milk, heavy cream and egg beat the soy into submission. I suppose you could try making this recipe with soymilk. But I like my ice cream deliciously detrimental to my health.

Kinako in ice cream form does, however, retain its nutty flavor and general yumminess. If you like peanut butter, you'll like this.

Kinako Ice Cream

Makes 4 servings

1/4 cup granulated sugar
1/4 cup brown sugar
3/4 cup whole milk
1/3 cup kinako (toasted soybean flour)
1 egg, beaten
1/2 cup heavy cream

In a saucepan over medium-low heat, stir together the sugars and milk. Gradually stir in the kinako. When the mixture begins to simmer, remove from heat, and whisk half of the mixture into the egg. Pour the egg mixture back into the saucepan, and stir in the heavy cream. Continue cooking over medium-low heat, stirring constantly, until the mixture is thick enough to coat the back of a metal spoon, about two minutes. Remove from heat, and strain into a container with a lid.

Chill in the refrigerator, ideally for at least 4 hours and up to overnight. This will improve the texture. Pour chilled mixture into an ice cream maker, and freeze according to the manufacturer's instructions.

Link | Comment (2) | Categories: Recipes | Soy | Summer | Sweets

June 26, 2006

tsu things to do with tsuyu

Tsuyu is the name for the rainy season in Japan, which is currently in full swing. The two characters of the word mean "plum rain," which I think is a rather undeservedly pretty name for several weeks of constant rain, sogginess and encroaching mold.

Tsuyu is also the name of a sauce usually used as a dip for cold noodles. I think tsuyu is delicious during tsuyu. I thought there might be some connection between the two, but my word detectivery was cut short when the first Japanese person I asked said, "They're just homonyms." (My word inventery, however, has continued unabated.)

I've been using tsuyu a lot in the last couple weeks, especially on days when it's too hot to fire up the fish grill and I'm sweating so much I can barely peel the paper bands off my soba noodles. My reliance on tsuyu as a way to cook without really cooking explains why I buy the bottled stuff, as opposed to making it from scratch. I'm a terrible Japanese housewife, I know. But the Kikkoman Hon Tsuyu is really very good, I assure you.

Some additional ingredient notes: Katakuriko is a starch made from potatoes, similar to cornstarch, but with its own special texture. So while cornstarch is an acceptable substitute, I think the lovely chewiness of agedashidōfu made with katakuriko is not to be missed. (You can buy it online here.) Lastly, I find it is worth it to spend more on soba noodles. More expensive noodles will undoubtedly be more flavorful and have a better texture than the cheaper brands in the store, so go ahead...spend the extra dollar. Plum rain season comes but once a year.

Agedashidōfu (Fried Tofu with Tsuyu)

Makes 2 servings

1 block momen (cotton) tofu
2 Tbs katakuriko (potato starch)
vegetable oil
1/4 cup tsuyu
2 Tbs green onion, chopped
1/2 myōga bulb, thinly sliced, or 1/2 tsp grated ginger

Drain the tofu. I wrap mine in paper towel, put it in a bowl and microwave it for 50-second intervals two or three times, wrapping it in fresh paper towel between zappings. Then I let it sit for 5-10 minutes on a dry paper towel. It loses a lot of water and feels much more firm at that point.

Cut the tofu into eight pieces and dredge in the potato starch. Cover the bottom of a skillet with a thin layer of vegetable oil and heat over a medium flame. When the oil is hot, put in the pieces of tofu and cook briefly on all sides, until just barely golden. Remove from the oil and put on a paper-towel-lined plate.

Transfer the tofu to two small bowls and top with the tsuyu, green onions and myōga or ginger.

Thanks to James for introducing me to the delicious simplicity of homemade agedashidōfu.

Cold Soba Noodles with Sesame Tsuyu

Makes 1 serving

1 bundle of soba noodles (about 100 grams)
1 Tbs white sesame seeds
1/3 cup tsuyu
1 Tbs green onion, chopped

Bring a pot of water to a boil and add the soba noodles. Cook for about 4 minutes, or until the noodles are al dente. Immediately drain into a colander and rinse well under cold water.

Toast the sesame seeds in a pan over a low flame, tossing or stirring the seeds constantly until they become fragrant and golden. Pour into a small bowl and with a pestle or wooden spoon, grind and crunch up some of the seeds. Add the tsuyu and green onions.

Put the noodles in a large bowl and serve with the sesame tsuyu. To eat, dip the noodles in the sauce and slurp away!

Link | Comment (1) | Categories: Noodles | Recipes | Soy | Summer

May 27, 2006

kinako pancakes

These pancakes have a nutty taste and more protein and B vitamins than your average pancake. They also have a tendency to stick to the pan, so use a nonstick skillet and butter it a bit before you add the batter. Also, buttermilk is unheard of in Japan, so I use a mixture of whole milk and plain yogurt. You could use a cup of buttermilk instead.

Kinako Pancakes

Makes about 8 4-inch pancakes

3/4 cup all-purpose flour
1/4 cup kinako (toasted soy flour)
1 tsp baking powder
1/2 tsp baking soda
dash of salt
1/2 cup plain yogurt
1/2 cup whole milk
1 egg
3 Tbs melted butter

Sift the dry ingredients into a bowl. Stir together the yogurt and milk, then add to the flour mixture. Add the egg and butter, then stir to combine. Lumpiness is okay.

Heat a nonstick skillet over a medium-low flame and add some butter or a bit of oil. Pour the batter into the skillet, about a half-cup for each pancake. When the edges of the pancakes look dry, flip them to cook the other side. Keep the finished pancakes warm in a low oven (250°F) until you are done making all of them.

Serve with butter, maple syrup and extra kinako for sprinkling on top.

Link | Comment (3) | Categories: Recipes | Soy | Sweets

May 3, 2006

kinako

Kinako is toasted soybean flour or, as I thought of it for the first few months in Japan, that weird powder they always put on mochi. It has a nutty flavor that reminds me a bit of peanut butter, especially when I sprinkle it on buttered toast, which is a favorite way to eat it here. Mixing it with some brown sugar and cinnamon before putting it on the toast makes a more substantial version of plain cinnamon-and-sugar-topped toast, but, since my prime kinako-toast-eating time is right after work, I am usually too lazy to do more than just dole it straight out of the bag. Kinako is also good as a yogurt or ice cream topping, especially when that ice cream is additionally topped with an (sweet bean jam). According to the back of my kinako package, it also makes a nutritious drink when mixed with milk, but I'll have to take their word for it since the thought of drinking a tall glass of milk always makes me want to gag. Unless there are brownies involved. I'm willing to make a lot of exceptions for brownies.

Kinako on toasted azuki-bean bread.

Since it is made of ground and toasted soybeans, kinako is full of protein, B vitamins and other soy-licious things, so in addition to finding it at Japanese or Asian grocery stores, you can also find it at natural foods stores.

Pocky has a kinako flavor, but unfortunately it was only in stores during the That Weird Powder phase, so I haven't tried it.

Some kinako recipes:
Kinako pancakes
Kinako ice cream
Kinako frosting

Link | Comment (5) | Categories: Ingredients | Soy | Sweets