
Taking pictures of noodles.
I was jet-lagged after a four-day trip to Massachusetts, tired from a late-night arrival and subsequent full day of work, and cranky after a long search for parking. But there was no way I was going to pass up the Thai boat noodle battle organized by Tony C. of Sinosoul, a soupy showdown in Thai Town sure to satisfy my craving for real Thai food. (An ill-advised visit a couple days before to Thai Place in Salem, MA -- not my idea and not recommended -- had only sharpened my craving.)

Jade noodles.
In one corner: Sapp Coffee Shop, made famous by its appearance on No Reservations with Anthony Bourdain. Our table of eleven annexed the center of the restaurant, but the staff was smiling and calm despite the big group. At my end of the table, Jessica, Louise , Maya and I chowed down on jade noodles -- a tangle of pale green soup-less noodles dotted with peanuts, herbs and chunks of barbecued pork -- while waiting for our boat noodles.

Sapp's boat noodles.
We didn't have long to wait. We moved our plates aside for the steaming bowls of thin rice noodles and dark broth, the table quickly filling up with orders of #2 (boat noodles) and #3 (boat noodles with offal). In Thailand, where boat noodles (kuaytiaw reua) were once sold from boats floating in the canals in the central region of the country, you are given your choice of noodle type and meat. What anchors the bowl is the intensely dark, chili-flecked broth which, if made well like Sapp's, hits you with a wave of beefy flavor that just keeps going, deep and endless as the ocean. (Mmm...boat noodle ocean...) As an added bonus, the bowls at Sapp are garnished with chicharrones, which soak up the broth and turn into beautiful little sponges of juicy, chewy porkiness. Before I knew it, my bowl was empty and it was time for round two of the showdown.

Dad finishes the noodles.
But first Tony came around to check on us. One thing I really enjoy about eating with Tony is that afterward he inspects your plate to make sure you ate everything and urges you to eat more if you didn't. He's like a Chinese mom. But at Sapp he also turned into our dad and finished off the noodles that didn't get eaten, head bent over the bowl, intent on not wasting a single noodle. It was awesome.

Ord exterior. Ol' Grumpy Jackson is inside.
After a brief stop at the dessert shop next door, we walked down the street to the second competitor: Ord Noodle. With its peeling white Eames shell chairs and chartreuse walls, Ord looks a bit like a down-at-the-heel Pinkberry, young families and tattoed Thai kids filling the tables and posters of weird comedy acts covering the walls. Unfortunately the staff seemed none too pleased to see such a large group walking in about 15 minutes before closing and we were grumpily told to wait while they pushed a few tables together. Most of us were already pretty full, but luckily Ord offers boat noodles in both small and large sizes. They also give you a choice of noodles, so I tried the wide rice noodles for variety. I wouldn't bother specifying a spiciness level, though -- while distributing the bowls, the waitress responded to "Is this the medium spicy?" with "It's the same thing!" while stalking moodily back to the kitchen. Excuuuuse me, Crabby Gabby.

Ord's boat noodles.
Ord's broth was quite different from Sapp's: sweeter and spicier with a more pronounced star anise flavor. It was also murkier, settling into layers after sitting undisturbed for a minute, and missing that mile-long finish. I liked the slippery bounce of the wide rice noodles, but the tripe and beef slices didn't seem as fresh as Sapp's, and let's be honest: noodle soups are all about the broth. From a brilliant stock comes brilliant broth, and I am not alone in my obsession with the ideal stock; in Le Guide Culinaire a certain Mr. Escoffier writes, "Indeed, stock is everything in cooking...Without it, nothing can be done. If one's stock is good, what remains of the work is easy; if, on the other hand, it is bad or merely mediocre, it is quite hopeless to expect anything approaching a satisfactory result."
Sounds so dire, doesn't it? It is quite hopeless to expect anything approaching a satisfactory result. HOPELESS.

If you couldn't already tell, Sapp's boat noodles were the big winner for me, as were the panchi from Bhan Kanom we got on the way back to our cars. Crisp and toasty on the outside, warm and soft on the inside, these sweet little cakes of griddled taro and coconut were just the right finish for our boat noodle battle.
Thanks to Tony and the other bloggers/eaters not mentioned above -- Alexandria, Marie, Pauline, Rick, Sook, Wesley -- for a fun night of noodle gluttony!
Sapp Coffee Shop
5183 Hollywood Blvd
Los Angeles, CA 90027
(323) 665-1035
Ord Noodle
5401 Hollywood Blvd
Los Angeles, CA 90027
(323) 468-9302
Bhan Kanom
5271 Hollywood Blvd
Los Angeles, CA 90027
(323) 871-8030