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November 18, 2009

Chicken feet
Jidori chicken feet.

I come from a long line of Presbyterian missionaries who spent time in West Africa, India and Thailand. If you're thinking The Poisonwood Bible or Mormons in bike helmets, you can stop. My extended family's time overseas led to a love of board games, sweetened condensed milk and singalongs, but we are not an overtly evangelical bunch.

This may be why I never really learned guilt. Not like my Catholic or Jewish friends anyway, whose mothers -- it is usually their mothers -- seemingly heaped on the guilt daily, like the big spoonfuls of sugar I used to dump in my morning cornflakes. It probably sounds strange to those who grew up with a fully-developed sense of guilt, but I almost never feel guilty.

Except that lately I feel guilty every time I eat meat.

Let me first say straight out that I am not a vegetarian and do not think there is anything fundamentally wrong with eating another living creature, although I have no problem with those who choose to forgo meat and/or animal products entirely. What I do find fundamentally wrong is the entire intensive meat farming industry, the CAFOs (Concentrated Animal Feeding Operations), the "high stocking densities," the antibiotics and growth hormones, the rows and rows of animals living and dying in misery, so that we can buy our boneless, skinless, tasteless chicken breasts for 99 cents a pound. It's not right. And I don't feel right eating it.

It's hard to not feel helpless, confronted with statistics that sketch out the sprawling, stinking behemoth that is the factory farming industry. But I've reached the point where I can't look at a piece of intensively farmed meat without visions of sad cows and suicidal pigs dancing through my head, so no matter how ineffectual it feels, I've decided to only eat sustainably farmed meat from now on.

This means only grass-fed beef, lamb, bison and goat, pastured chicken and duck and humanely raised pork. It also means a lot more research and work when I go shopping. Part of the problem is that the language surrounding meat and its origins is purposely vague, misleading and often meaningless. "Natural" means only that the meat is free of artificial colors and preservatives. "Organic" means the animal ate a completely organic diet, was not given hormones or antibiotics and was allowed access to the outdoors, but this could mean just a small door leading to a tiny concrete yard. Unfortunately, there is no guarantee the life of an organic chicken was any less horrific than that of its conventional cousin.

So I am turning to farmers markets, where shopping for humanely-raised meat is cheaper than Whole Foods and much more rewarding: I can actually look the farmer in the eye and ask him how his animals lived and died. The number of meat vendors at LA-area farmers markets is miniscule compared to the number of produce vendors, but seems to be growing steadily. I can personally recommend the pastured (jidori) chicken from Ana's Farm at the Alhambra Farmers Market and the grass-fed beef from J&J at the Atwater Village Farmers Market (and other markets throughout the week).

The one caveat? I am making an exception for special ethnic restaurants, simply because I am a weak, food-obsessed person who cannot live without soup dumplings from Din Tai Fung, boat noodles from Sapp and fried chicken from Kyochon. They are only occasional indulgences, so I don't feel guilty about the decision.

...Okay, maybe just a little. But my overwhelming feeling is relief. I am no longer hiding behind passivity and the mantra "What I don't know can't hurt me!" As I finish off the last of a small roast chicken -- small because it grew at a normal pace, without a freakishly large breast -- I am not swallowing guilt, shame or fear. Only chicken, really good chicken.


Some inspiration (and more thorough, eloquent thoughts on the meat industry):

Comments

Those chicken claws are quite elegant. Am i alone in wanting to give them nails a manicure? On a serious note, kudos. I think its a commendable chpice you've made for the environment and the aminals.

Looove it. Dylan and I had a long, hard talk about meat last night. I told him if we're willing to spend $ for the quality laptops and camera crap...we should be willing to spend more for what goes in our body.

I agree with you on all fronts, including the ethnic restaurant exception. I also make an exception for funky cuts of meat that are only available in Asian grocery stores.

I hope the meat industry as we know it will change with time. Fingers crossed.

I decided to start doing this last year, and I really haven't regretted it. x

Don't forget that some farmers will let you preorder whole sections of beef and pork and most will chop it up for you (some around Seattle will deliver for a large enough order). This is a good option to buy the meat cheaper per pound. If you and a few others order together, you won't need to store a whole quarter of a cow in your freezer.

It was really really hard (emotionally) to chop the feet and head off of my jidori chicken, but somehow your picture of chicken feet is so much prettier than my experience. I felt like I was chopping off some 90-year-old arthritic woman's hands. (shudder)

Yutty and Ellen, yes -- the nails were shocking the first time I bought a footed chicken. But Ellen, it was much easier this time, and less emotional. I think that's good....

Oishii Eats, Rob was actually the one who came up with this idea! It was after we saw Food Inc. I was so proud.

Gastronomer, I am trying to cook more with offal after reading the River Cottage Meat Book. There's a grassfed beef tongue in my freezer!

Tamsin, glad to hear it!

Jo, I am looking into doing something like that with my friends. I really want to find a local pork source.

Props! It's an issue that's unavoidable (even if one wants to stick their head into the sand) and it's great that you're making such a commitment. With the way the world is these days, things get very depressing when we start tracking back how we get all our "stuff" (not just food). So, sometimes for sanity/practicality's sake, we need to make the most conscientious (and realistic) choices for our unique lifestyles. Good post!

We could turn them ckn feet into great dim sum!

Wow! I have been feeling the same way about meat. We have raised chickens for meat and eggs and my husband hunts to provide red meat. I think about how much better the lives of our chickens and the deer were. I have a family of 5, so the plan is to buy a whole pig, cow or lamb/goat to fill the freezer. I want to find someone who does pastured pork as I've heard the quality is amazingly improved - compared to the CFAO version. It may be more work and up-front use of time to buy meat this way, but factory farms will continue to be the norm until we decide to take a stand - with our wallets.

I was beginning to feel I was the only one having sudden " feelings " about my meat. I'm so glad you wrote about it. Living in southern Ontario, I have treid the route of locally farmed aniamls but that has bothered me so much I coudlnt get my meat from the farms. While I felt the animal might have had a pasture to graze, he died a violent death. The meats had lots of busted blood vessels and the meat tasted funky. Until now I'm still haunted byt the sight of that packet of meat. I've now unconciously gone to eating a lot of vegetables.

I really love this post. I just finished reading EATING ANIMALS and then started writing about my own struggles with eating meat, using animal products, living sustainably, etc. I hope the culture is shifting to a period of awareness.

Beautiful photo, by the way. Kind of heartbreaking.

I echo your sentiments completely. The Omnivore's Dilemma put it completely in perspective for me, and although I still indulge in those Din Tai Fung dumplings and dim sum spareribs, I try to only buy naturally and locally raised meat and eggs for my own consumption. I think next on my to-do list is learning to butcher, so if you're down... =)

I appreciate these thoughts. You seem like a wunderful writer who has more on her mind than just food. So, I hope you write about other things some day.

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